August 23, 2024
SINGAPORE – A plate of Hainanese curry rice – that was how Prime Minister Lawrence Wong described Singapore’s multiculturalism during his Mandarin speech at the 2024 National Day Rally on Aug 18.
PM Wong said the dish reflects Singapore’s unique society, where various races have their own vibrant culture, yet are inclusive and united.
As long as the different communities continue to work together, Singapore’s culture can be passed down to future generations, even as it becomes more vibrant and diverse, and the country will be able to overcome difficulties or challenges in its way, he added.
According to an Aug 20 report from Chinese daily Lianhe Zaobao, owners of some Hainanese curry rice stalls visited by reporters said their business has increased by about 20 per cent since PM Wong’s speech.
Customers expressed a deeper understanding and appreciation for the dish, with one remarking that such a unique delicacy could exist only thanks to Singapore’s diversity. Even tourists were intrigued by PM Wong’s reference, leading them to seek out a plate of the dish as well.
But what exactly is Hainanese curry rice? This dish is believed to have been created in Singapore during colonial times.
According to the National Heritage Board’s Roots.sg portal, it began with Hainanese chefs and cooks drawing from British and Peranakan influences.
The dish comprises an eclectic blend of cultures – the British-influenced breaded pork chop, the Peranakan-style braised cabbage (chap chye) and the originally Indian curry pastes, thickened with starch, in Chinese style, often topped with a dash of dark soya sauce.
Other signature components are braised pork cooked in the Hokkien or Peranakan style, and chicken curry. Common side dishes include meatballs, bean sprouts, tofu, seafood and fried eggs.
Speaking to The Straits Times, Singaporean restaurateur and chef Willin Low said that PM Wong’s reference to Hainanese curry rice was spot on.
A plate from Loo’s Hainanese Curry Rice at Tiong Bahru Market. PHOTO: THE STRAITS TIMES
“I can’t think of any other dish that would be more apt, because although many Singaporean dishes have different cultural influences, Hainanese curry rice is possibly the most culturally diverse, and the most obvious in that regard,” said Mr Low.
He noted that although the blend of components is diverse, the specific combination of dishes coming together is what makes Hainanese curry rice what it is. This sets it apart from similar dishes like economy rice, which may feature a wider variety of components that people can mix and match on a whim.
Speaking of a whim – and if your appetite is whetted – how about checking out some of these stalls specialising in Hainanese curry rice, and getting into the Singapore spirit?
Loo’s Hainanese Curry Rice
Where: 02-67/68 Tiong Bahru Food Centre, 52 Tiong Bahru Road
Open: 8.30am to 2.45pm (Fridays to Wednesdays), closed on Thursdays
With each batch of curry taking three days to prepare, the recipe for Loo’s Hainanese Curry Rice has not changed since it was founded by the late Mr Loo Niap Tan after World War II, according to food website ieatishootipost.
Its curry, said another food blog DanielFoodDiary, is smooth, aromatic and mildly spicy – different from the gooey, sticky gravy that may feature in other Hainanese curry rice offerings.
Curry rice from Loo’s Hainanese Curry Rice. PHOTO: THE STRAITS TIMES
Loo’s Hainanese Curry Rice is known for its old-school preparation methods, such as using only freshly squeezed coconut milk, and coating its pork chops with crumbs made from grinding down a specific cream cracker from local biscuit manufacturer Khong Guan.
It was inducted into the World Gourmet Summit Hawker Series Hall of Fame in 2022.
The Hainanese curry rice in Beo Crescent
Where: 01-10, Block 40 Beo Crescent
Open: 7am to 2.30pm (Thursdays to Tuesdays), closed on Wednesdays
Said by its fans to be the best in Singapore, the Hainanese curry rice from a nameless coffeeshop stall in Beo Crescent is raved about partly because of its portions and affordability.
“One of my motivations to wake up early is to queue for Beo Crescent Curry Rice,” said food blogger thequirkyfoodie.
The stall refers to the classic combination of pork chop, cabbage and sunny-side-up egg as “doremi” after the first three notes of a musical scale. But from the way customers describe the dish, you would think it is an entire orchestra of flavours in their mouths.
Beach Road Scissors Cut Curry Rice
Where: 229 Jalan Besar
Open: 11am to 3.30am daily
Perhaps one of the more recognisable haunts for the late-night supper folk, Beach Road Scissors Cut Curry Rice Singapore is often one of the first stalls mentioned in discussions about the dish.
Its curry is sticky, thick and smooth, with just the right amount of spice, say customers. The various offerings that accompany the dish taste best when drenched in said curry, and the portions are also generous.
A plate with chicken cutlet, egg and vegetables at Beach Road Scissors Cut Curry Rice in Jalan Besar. PHOTO: THE STRAITS TIMES
Beware the crowds though, as seats are limited, especially given the stall is one of the most affordable in the area.
Kim’s Curry Hainan
Where: J99 Eating House, Block 186 Toa Payoh Central
Open: 10.30am to 8pm daily
Kim’s Curry Hainan is a relatively new player – it entered the Hainanese curry rice arena only in July 2022. It offers unique gravies to complement its dishes, such as mala and chicken collagen, in addition to the traditional braised and curry offerings.
Kim’s Curry Hainan’s Signature Kim’s Curry Combo Set at Toa Payoh Central. PHOTO: THE STRAITS TIMES
Lifestyle website Sethlui.com, along with testimonies on Google reviews, highlighted how different blends of each gravy can enhance the base dish, as well as its succulent braised pork belly. Customers also noted the stall’s affordability and the friendliness of its staff.
Sin Chie Toke Huan Hainanese Curry Rice
Where: 1018 Upper Serangoon Road
Open: 5pm to 2.30am daily
DanielFoodDiary calls Sin Chie Toke Huan one of the “must try” Hainanese curry rice joints in Singapore.
The long lines during peak hours, as well as the after-work and late-night supper crowds attest to the stall’s popularity.
Its curry is described to be of the thinner, milder variety, which may not appeal to those who prefer stronger flavours. If you cannot take spice, then Sin Chie Toke Huan may be more your speed.
Customers praise Sin Chie Tok Huan’s prawn paste fried chicken wings, fried fish and meatballs as great accompaniments to the classic curry rice combination, and often end their meals on a sweet note with desserts, like its popular chendol.
But what if a plate of classic Hainanese curry rice does not suit your dietary requirements, you may ask? Well, when it comes to food in Singapore, you rarely find yourself out of options.
The Hainan Story
Where: 01-09 Hotel Boss, 500 Jalan Sultan
Open: 8am to 3am daily
Vegans and vegetarians need not fret. The Hainan Story has suitable options for its Hainanese curry rice too. See the eggs and chicken in these photos? Yup, they are all plant-based.
Across its three outlets – in Jalan Sultan, Hillion Mall in Bukit Panjang and Jewel Changi Airport – the chain offers a wide variety of not only Hainanese curry rice, but also other main courses such as porridge, Western fare and chicken rice, as well as confectioneries, beverages and desserts.
Encik Tan
Where: Everywhere, really
Open: Hours vary by location
With more than 20 outlets islandwide, Encik Tan, which is a halal-certified establishment, is both accessible and affordable.
Its Nasi Kari Hainan is available with chicken cutlets, drumsticks, fried fish, fried prawns or sambal sotong varieties – or simply mix and match to your desire.