November 4, 2024
HANOI – In a world where time ticks forward relentlessly, one artist is crafting moments that capture the essence of Vietnamese culture – one second at a time.
Trần Ngọc Chiến, 35, was introduced to metal engraving by a friend, igniting his passion for turning watch dials into cultural artworks.
“Before pursuing watch engraving, I explored and mastered metal engraving,” Chiến said. “With my love for watches, I wanted to create artistic pieces on watch dials. That’s when I decided to fully commit to watch engraving.”
For Chiến, engraving is more than just craft; it’s a tribute to Vietnamese heritage. He draws inspiration from traditional motifs, including Lý Dynasty dragons and Đông Hồ folk art, transforming these designs into intricate watch engravings.
“I’ve always deeply appreciated Vietnamese culture and feel great pride in our heritage,” he said. “Our traditions carry such depth, and incorporating these elements into my designs lets me express that pride.”
The creation process begins with researching motifs through books and real-life images, which Chiến then translates into designs and engravings. One recent piece, titled Thổi Sáo Chăn Trâu (Boy Playing Flute While Herding Buffalo), is inspired by a Đông Hồ folk painting of the same name.
“I love the artwork’s meaning, showing a boy playing the flute while sitting on a buffalo’s back, capturing moments of relaxation after hard work and helping people forget their daily fatigue,” Chiến said.
A watch design is called ‘Thoi Sao Chan Trau’ (Boy Playing Flute on Buffalo’s Back), inspired by the Dong Ho painting of the same name. PHOTO: VIET NAM NEWS
Creating these intricate designs requires sophisticated techniques, such as relief engraving, to add dimension to the watch faces. For even finer detail, he combines materials like gold, silver and pearl, and sometimes adds gemstones. Each design demands painstaking attention to detail and precision.
“To bring the Thổi Sáo Chăn Trâu dial to life, I used bas-relief techniques with a 925 silver dial inlaid with 24k gold, shaping raised details through metalworking techniques,” he said.
With watch faces typically around 32mm in diameter, Chiến uses a stereo microscope to magnify his work by 10 to 50 times. Given the niche nature of this craft in Việt Nam, Chiến and his team modify tools for engraving, rather than importing costly equipment.
“We scoured open-air second-hand markets to find and adapt tools. We even used a tattoo machine’s power source to regulate our engraving tools,” said Lưu Trường Sinh, an engraving artist on Chiến’s team. “Some engraving tips are imported, but we grind them ourselves to suit each stage of the process.”
Sinh explained that the most challenging part of the process is inlaying gold onto metal surfaces. “Handling gold is delicate work, and any mistake requires significant rework. I must balance precision and pressure to avoid displacing the gold strands, which would mean starting over.”
Chiến brings his own creative interpretation to every watch, merging traditional motifs with modern designs.
“As a member of the younger generation, I want to inherit and evolve our traditions. Replicating images exactly would lack creativity, but respecting their unique details is essential,” he said.
For a recent project on the Vietnamese mythical mascot, the nghê, he reimagined the traditional creature on a lotus pedestal for a unique square watch face.
While preserving traditional beauty, Mr. Chien adds his own creative touch to each watch. PHOTO: VIET NAM NEWS
“The lotus is familiar to our people, and combined with the nghê, it creates a cohesive design celebrating Vietnamese symbols,” he added.
Looking to the future, Chiến and his team aim to apply even more advanced techniques to their craft. “We are eager to incorporate Vietnamese cultural elements in our engraving,” Sinh said.
“Vietnamese art has unique styles, such as pearl inlay and bronze hammering, which we blend with Western engraving techniques after learning from local artisans. This allows us to harmonise Vietnamese tradition with our own engraving style.”
A watch may tell the hours, but Chiến’s work reminds us that every second is an opportunity to cherish Việt Nam’s cultural legacy.