November 17, 2023
SINGAPORE – Singapore chef Damian D’Silva of Rempapa restaurant will receive the prestigious Artisan & Authenticity Award 2024 from La Liste, a French ranking and restaurants guide.
It was created in 2021 and recognises establishments whose creations highlight their region or country’s culinary heritage.
Previous awardees include James Beard winner Sean Sherman, who champions Native American cuisine, and Seong-il Kim of high-end traditional Korean restaurant La Yeon in Seoul.
D’Silva is the first Singaporean to receive the award.
He tells The Straits Times that he is honoured and deeply touched to have been recognised. “It’s a step closer in achieving my dream, but more importantly, an endorsement for Singapore’s heritage,” he adds. “My aspiration has always been to share Singapore heritage cuisine with everyone, local and foreign.”
The 66-year-old will receive the award at a gala in Paris on Monday evening. There, he will prepare kueh pie tee – crisp pastry cups filled with shredded turnip and other ingredients – for international chefs and members of the media.
He will deliver a brief talk on his culinary philosophy the following day, and take part in a moderated conversation with Odette chef-owner Julien Royer about celebrating food traditions in Singapore.
D’Silva has been a vocal advocate for local culinary heritage, earning him the affectionate moniker “the grandfather of heritage cuisine”.
The multicultural menu at his restaurant Rempapa, located at Park Place Residences at PLQ in Paya Lebar, is a nod to his Eurasian and Peranakan heritage, and also incorporates flavours from Chinese, Malay and Indian cooking.
The chef worked in Italy and France from 1997 to 1999, where he picked up European cooking.
He eventually found his way back home, helming restaurants such as Soul Kitchen, Folklore and Kin, and also serving as a judge on reality competition show MasterChef Singapore (2018 to present).
He believes his win will encourage the younger generation of local chefs to continue their journey with heritage cuisine.
He adds: “Ultimately, the award is not about me, but is a celebration of our cultural heritage that all Singaporeans should be proud of.”
Twelve Singapore restaurants are on La Liste’s Top 1000 Restaurants 2024 ranking.
Modern French restaurant Odette is the highest-placed, at No. 3 with a score of 98.5. It ranked fifth on 2023’s list, alongside Zen, which serves Scandinavian cuisine with Japanese influences.
Zen is at No. 4 this time, tied with French fine-dining establishment Les Amis.
Barbecue restaurant Burnt Ends is a newcomer this round, with a score of 81.
Other Singapore eateries on the list include Japanese restaurant Waku Ghin, modern British restaurant Jaan by Kirk Westaway and Chinese restaurant Crystal Jade Golden Palace.